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The
Whitehouse, Washington D.C. |
Washington
D.C. is certainly not the most traditional or dynamic national
capital in the world. The United
States capital is by no means steeped in ancient history as compared
to say London
or Beijing, though it is certainly historical as far as the last
two centuries are concerned. In its comparatively short history, buildings
such as the White
House have become veritable institutions with even more historical
significance than say, Beijing's Forbidden City, or the Tower
of London. Washington DC has a great advantage in that it was
designed and laid out as a capital city. As it was 'custom-built,' planning
a visit is much simpler in terms of finding out where everything is located
and the memorials
and monuments, museums
and public buildings are particularly magnificent because they were always
intended to be impressive. With government and lobbying being the major
industries, the commerce- powered pulse of most big cities is definitely
missing. A lot of the negativity that may be expressed towards DC is as
a result of the inherent dislike of big government and taxation that so
many Americans possess - an attitude that is much less prevalent in other
countries where people are more resigned to paying taxes. However a trip
to DC is certainly a great opportunity for every American to see the direct
results of their tax expenditure.
Other detractors cite D.C.'s crime statistics. What should
be realized is that these are dramatically skewed by the fact that within
the boundaries of DC there are few suburbs and most of the housing is
inner city. The affluent and relatively safe suburbs of Maryland
and Virginia - that
are in effect D.C.'s suburbs - would dramatically reduce the statistics
were they within the DC boundaries. As in any major city the world over
- if basic precautions are taken and certain areas avoided, few visitors
will become the victims of crime during their visit.
Whatever one's opinions on the machinery of government,
the attractiveness of Washington cannot be denied - certainly as a place
to visit. Washington lacks the electric urban atmosphere of a New
York City or Chicago,
but it has its own unique character and definition that makes it a definite
'one of a kind' city, and a very beautiful city as well. Although bureaucratic
and even staid by some definitions during the daytime, Washington DC (locally
referred to as DC) comes alive after work with a thriving nightlife, and
an enviable cultural scene. Washington is a center of diplomacy and the
influence of the influx of people from throughout the world assures an
eclectic blend of restaurants
and world class cultural events at such venues as the Kennedy
Center.
History
Considering that Washington DC is built on a swamp in
what was a very isolated part of the south, the city certainly has come
a long way in a very short time. After the American War of Independence,
the choice of a capital was designed to appeal to the southern members
of the newly formed United States. A site more centrally located along
the East Coast was chosen as opposed to Philadelphia,
Boston or New York,
which were seen by southerners as being part and parcel of the dominant
northern establishment. George Washington officially selected the
site at the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia rivers in 1789.
A mammoth task was about to be undertaken.
A Frenchman who had fought alongside the Americans during
the revolutionary war was chosen to design the city. Pierre L'Enfant's
ebullient manner soon alienated him to many of the movers and shakers
in the young city, so his services were not retained for very long. However
his concept of an efficient and orderly American-style street grid system,
combined with wide thoroughfares replicating the grand boulevards and
circles of Europe was retained. L'Enfant's original ideas are tangibly
in evidence throughout the city. Dupont and Washington Circles
and the broad Massachusetts and Pennsylvania Avenues with their
pavement cafés and tree-lined sidewalks are very much reminiscent of Paris
or other European capitals. In early days the swamp that was Washington
was notorious for its mosquitoes and as a diplomatic posting the capital
certainly did not have the prestigious status it has today.
During the War of 1812 most of Washington was razed to
the ground by the British and Canadian loyalists - even the White House
was seriously damaged. The fledging union was tempted to abandon the sticky
backwater, but when it was considered that this would be playing into
the hands of the enemy, the Americans persisted to build their dream capital
city. Ironically it was somebody from Britain, who never had set foot
in the U.S.A. that was to provide a dramatic boost to the city of Washington,
DC James Smithson bequeathed the then princely sum of a half million
dollars to establish the Smithsonian
Institute in Washington. This establishment's first building for
"the increase and diffusion of knowledge" was erected in 1849, and still
stands today as the information center for what has become what many believe
to be the world's ultimate museum.
The Civil War halted development, with resources going
instead to build a network of forts to surround the city to protect the
union capital from the Confederates of the adjacent southern states. One
construction was completed though - and this was certainly a symbolic
gesture. The United
States Capitol
became one of the most evocative symbols of the nation. After the
war reconstruction and improvement began in earnest. At great expense
that left the city bankrupt, modernization rapidly improved things, and
the city began to appear as originally dreamed of. The planting of over
50,000 trees helped, as did paving, and the installation of sewers.
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| Lincoln Memorial at
Dusk |
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What really made a difference, and totally in line with
L'Enfant's original vision was the work headed up by Senator James
McMillan of Michigan
at the turn of the 20th Century. McMillan and his committee were determined
to finish the work that L'Enfant had commenced over a century earlier.
The
Mall was created and enhanced with the Lincoln
Memorial and the adjacent Reflecting Pool, and the Jefferson
Memorial by the Tidal Basin. The latter was enhanced in
1910 by the planting of the now famous cherry trees that were received
as a gift from Japan. Also constructed under McMillan was the Union
Station - a design based on classical temples. After the decline
of the passenger railroad this fell into disrepair and had to be closed
for safety reasons in 1981. Fortunately this building has been remarkably
restored and is now an attraction in its own right as well as being a
major passenger train terminal. At the same time the passenger train has
also witnessed something of a resurgence. The general outline of Washington
DC as we know it today had finally taken shape. Of course many landmarks
have been created since, new sights
and attractions are frequently additions to the city landscape.
Climate
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| Cherry Blossoms by the Washington Monument |
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Many visitors forget that Washington DC is a southern
city, and as such is often semi-tropical in climate. In winter snow is
not unheard of but not as frequently as in the cities further north. The
winter weather is fairly moderate and the average temperatures can be
anything from mild to fairly cold. Average temperatures range between
24 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit (- 4 and 4 degrees Celsius). Summers can
be very hot indeed, and these seem even higher than they actually are
due to the extremely high humidity caused by the close proximity of the
Chesapeake Bay.
In summer temperatures often exceed 86 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees
Celsius). Fortunately air conditioning is everywhere, and the warm evenings
enable visitors to sit out late and watch the world go by. The best thing
about Washington's climate is the shoulder season of fall and spring.
At this time temperatures are very pleasant ranging from the 50s to the
70s Fahrenheit (10 - 22 degrees Celsius). In Washington the outdoor furniture
comes out earlier and goes in later than in cities further north. Spring
is when Washington's famous cherry blossoms are in bloom (late March early
April). The best locations for these are close to the Jefferson Memorial
by the Tidal Basin, and in Potomac
Park (these bloom around two weeks later than those at the Jefferson
Memorial).
Transportation
The Washington Metrotrain is one of the finest transit
systems in the world. It travels underground and on the surface. The
Metro is modern, efficient and economical. DC also has an extensive
bus system. The Metrobus runs in coordination with the Metrotrain,
and between the two systems, public
transportation is available throughout the city. For those who
want to visit the many beautiful places in the surrounding areas of Maryland
or Virginia rental
cars should be booked in advance.
Getting to Washington DC is relatively simple. The area
has three major airports.
Dulles International Airport serves an ever-increasing number of
international and long haul domestic flights. This airport is worth a
visit just for an opportunity to see the beautiful main terminal building,
designed in 1962 by Finland's Eero Saarinen. Despite its age it still
looks futuristic, it was Saarinen's intention for the terminal to represent
the joy of flying and the advent of the jet age. The closest airport to
downtown DC is Ronald Reagan International Airport (better known
as Washington National Airport) only 3.5 miles (5.6km) on the other
side of the Potomac. This airport serves the shorter haul domestic market,
and also has service to several points in Canada. The third airport is
BWI (Baltimore Washington International) this serves both the DC
area and the City of Baltimore.
BWI has flights from all over North America and some points overseas as
well.
All three airports have excellent bus and a limousine
service to points in downtown DC BWI has two additional modes of transportation.
There is a frequent free bus service from the airport to and from the
nearby Amtrak station to connect with mainline train service for points
throughout the Northeastern United States. BWI also has a shuttle service
that delivers and picks-up door to door in the Maryland suburbs of DC
Ronald Reagan Airport has its own Metro station which is a cheap and efficient
alternative from using motor vehicles, and of course eliminates traffic
delays.
Taking the train to Washington DC is becoming increasingly
popular. Amtrak
has direct or connecting service to the beautiful restored Union Station
from points throughout the United States and even parts of Canada.
Greyhound long-distance bus routes to the Washington DC area
are extensive and include services throughout the surrounding states and
nationwide.
Featured Attractions
The Smithsonian Institution currently comprises of 16
museums and galleries, 14 of which are in Washington plus the National
Zoo. The Smithsonian's benefactor would be pleased to see that
his original bequest of half a million dollars has led to perhaps the
finest all-encompassing collection of the human story that exists. But
the Smithsonian is more than just museums and galleries; it also undertakes
publishing, education through classes and lectures, and artifact restoration
and preservation for individuals and institutions other than its own.
The Smithsonian sponsors research in a wide variety of fields, and various
libraries.
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The
Smithsonian Institute, Washington DC |
It would be impossible to see all that the Smithsonian
has to offer in a daily visit for a year, never mind on a short vacation.
However at least half a day should be allowed to see just a fraction of
what the Smithsonian has on display. In order to decide which parts of
the Smithsonian to visit, it is important to set priorities according
to one's personal interests. The institution's most popular venue is without
doubt the relatively recent National
Air and Space Museum. There are few that wouldn't be impressed
with this particular museum. Suspended from the ceiling in the main gallery
are a variety of aircraft ranging from the Wright Brothers' 1903 Flyer
and Charles Lindbergh's Spirit of St. Louis to Apollo
11's Command Module and a Viking Mars Lander. In other
galleries the focus is on various aspects of air and space travel, and
it is even possible to touch some moon rock.
Of particular appeal to families is the National
Museum of Natural History. This focuses on life on earth, both
human and animal. At the museum entrance a life-size model of a triceratops
dinosaur greets visitors. There are two ocean ecosystems recreated here-
the coral reef and the temperate shoreline. A life-size model of a blue
whale enables viewing up close and makes people realize just how big these
creatures are. In the Hall of Gems among the collection of over
1,000 gems is the Hope Diamond - all 45.5 carats of it. For children the
Discovery Room is bound to please. A huge variety of items from
the natural world can be touched, smelt and sometimes even tasted. These
items include crocodile heads, elephant tusks, rocks, seashells and seeds
and herbs. Children will also enjoy the Insect Zoo where if they
so desire they can pet a tarantula or a three-inch (7.6cm) long hissing
cockroach.
Although L'Enfant wanted to recreate the look and ambience
of Europe on the streets of the capital, he probably did not anticipate
that Washington would have a cathedral church every bit as splendid and
with all the architectural features of a medieval European cathedral.
The Washington
National Cathedral took most of the 20th Century to construct,
but just like any ancient European cathedral, master craftsmen and stone
masons built this beautiful church stone by stone. Technically the Cathedral
is Episcopalian and as such can receive no government funding. Unofficially
it is the "national' church and as such has always encouraged the active
participation of all faiths and is very much ecumenical in nature. Whatever
a person's belief, this place is well worth visiting. To sit quietly in
the center of the cathedral for a few minutes of contemplation is extremely
therapeutic. While gazing all around at the grand scale of everything
it is amazing to think of the faith and devotion that enabled such a structure
to be built. The stained glass artistry is marvelous, particularly the
West Rose Window which looks like something from a children's kaleidoscope,
particularly when the sun shines through it. The Space Window commemorates
the mission of Apollo 11 and a piece of moon rock is embedded in the glass.
In the center of the nave it is possible to see the flying buttresses.
A classic attribute of Gothic architecture, these support the roof to
enable the walls to contain windows. The pulpit is made from stones taken
from England's ancient
Canterbury Cathedral; here Martin Luther King preached his last
Sunday sermon before he was assassinated in Memphis,
Tennessee.
To get a great view of the Washington area take the elevator
up the twin towers to the Pilgrim Observation Gallery. Its 70 windows
enable visitors to see a stunning panorama of the city and its surroundings,
plus provide the opportunity to examine some of the exquisite exterior
stone work up close. The grounds (or more correctly called close) of the
cathedral are comprised of 57 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens.
There are several gardens; the Bishop's Garden is divided up into
several themes including a rose garden, an herb garden and a magnolia
garden. There is also an herb cottage and this sells a variety of herbs,
honey and salad dressings, the herbs come from the cathedral garden and
greenhouse. Like the cathedral itself, the grounds provide a pleasant
sojourn away from a hectic itinerary.
As with all historical places, particularly one that
reflects a whole nations turbulent history, Washington does have sites
that mark less proud moments in human history. In the final analysis of
such times the impact on individual people is what really effects us all,
and etches these events on the souls of all those who remember them. In
DC four sites in particular are of great significance. Many noteworthy
people are buried at Arlington
National Cemetery including generals such as Omar Bradley
and celebrities such as boxer Joe Louis or war hero movie star
Audie Murphy. Most people come to Arlington though to visit the
graves of three members of one of America's most remarkable albeit tragedy
ridden families - the Kennedys.
These people were world -renowned and it is certainly
not just Americans who make a point of paying their respects while on
a trip to Washington. It is said that anybody who was alive for the death
of all or any of these three people can remember where they were when
they heard the news. The grave of assassinated president John Fitzgerald
Kennedy (J.F.K.) is simple and there is an eternal flame originally
lit by his widow Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. She is buried beside
her husband after falling to cancer at a relatively young age. JFK's brother
Robert Fitzgerald Kennedy, who was also assassinated at the beginning
of his candidacy for president in 1968, is buried close by.
World War II marked the arrival of the United States on the
world stage on a permanent basis, from then onwards what ever happened in the
U.S.A. effected the world as a whole. For the Americans the conflict in the
Pacific was particularly bloody and costly in terms of human lives. Just north
of the Arlington National Ceremony stands the United
States Marine Corps War Memorial, popularly known as the Iwo Jima
Memorial. This remarkable statue was created by Felix W. Weldon from
the Pullitzer Prize-winning photograph by Joe Rosenthal. The photograph
was taken as a group of five U.S. marines and a sailor raise the American flag
after a long battle during which over 5,000 American marines lost their lives.
This 78-foot (24 meter) high statue has provided the ultimate image of World
War II from an American perspective.
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| Vietnam War Memorial in Washington D.C. |
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The Vietnam War marked another very traumatic period
in US and world history. Whatever a person's political beliefs on the
war itself, it was essential for the nation to honor those who served
in the course of this tumultuous conflict. The stark black granite walls
of the Vietnam
Veterans Memorial are certainly an appropriate symbol of this
period. The Memorial is located close to the Lincoln Memorial and the
names of the fallen and missing are chronologically listed. A statue of
three service personnel of the era is adjacent to the v-shaped walls.
Like the Kennedy gravesites and the Iwo Jima memorial, the simplicity
of the Vietnam Memorial evokes the era in a very poignant fashion.
Of all the human tragedies that have beset the world, certainly in recent
times the holocaust of World War II has cut some the deepest scars from
a global perspective. Though the actual events of this barbarism took
place far from the shores of the United States many Americans lost close
family members, and many survivors found refuge in the U.S.A. after their
unimaginable ordeal. These events have been well documented, and for good
reason, they must never be forgotten if we are to learn from history and
our mistakes.
While the holocaust may be a gruesome subject for a vacation,
traveling is part of learning and the United
States Holocaust Memorial Museum is above all educational. While
not suitable for young children under a certain age (parental discretion
is advised) it is a story that every young person should be very familiar
with, because it teaches what prejudice and intolerance can lead to. The
exhibition is on three levels and is deliberately designed to provoke
deep reflection upon the total insanity of the time. Around 11 million
human beings of all ages were murdered in the holocaust including: Jews
(6 million), Gypsies, homosexuals, the mentally and physically disabled,
POWs, political dissidents, Jehovah's Witnesses, and anyone who did not
fit into the Nazis' twisted vision for the 'perfect' society. The purpose
of the museum is that every visitor is given the opportunity to feel to
an infinite fraction how it must have been for those deigned by the Nazis
as 'unsuitable.' On arrival at the museum each visitor is given an identity
card with the name and a photograph of a holocaust victim.
The United States Museum of the Holocaust is far from
a negative experience; it is on the contrary, very inspiring. The role
of resistance and the courage and ultimate triumph of the survivors are
emphasized, as is the fact that the evil that instigated the Holocaust
perished and the people and cultures that they tried to eradicate live
on, tempered by the experience and stronger than ever. Tickets are necessary
for admission to the permanent exhibition of the museum. A limited number
are available each day, or can be obtained from an agency for a service
charge.
In contrast to war, murder and general mayhem, Washington
DC has a large number of galleries that showcase some of the world's greatest
art. The National
Gallery of Art includes work from a large list of artistic giants,
including America's only Da Vinci and work by El Greco,
Rubens, Renoir and Monet to name but a few. Work
by famous sculptors such as Henry Moore and modern artists such
as Alexander Calder are also on display. These works are a feast
for everybody, and those who do not consider themselves artistic should
still be sure to visit, as they will still certainly enjoy the beautiful
works on display.
The Phillips
Collection is equally noteworthy, and enhanced by its cozy but
elegant informality and knowledgeable staff. The collection of impressionist
works is stunning, American and French works are all very well represented.
Van Gogh and Cezanne are among the impressionists whose
works are on display. The collection has expanded to include the works
of Post-Impressionists, European and American Modernists like Georgia
O'Keefe and even work from earlier times by such artists as Goya.
This museum is the ideal place to introduce neophytes to the world of
art. Here you can take the time to ponder the work from a comfy couch,
or to discuss it with an informed guide.
The waters of the Chesapeake Bay in adjacent Maryland
and Virginia are home to some of the world's greatest crab fisheries.
The local blue crabs are a great delicacy that is widely available throughout
the Washington area. One of the more basic ways of enjoying them is to
go to a crab house. This is not for the squeamish, but is a delicious
experience. The eating usually takes place at long trestle tables that
are covered with newspaper or brown wrapping paper. The crabs are poured
from baskets onto the table; they will have been boiled and covered in
bay seasoning. It's then every person for themselves, as with the aid
of mallets and dexterous fingers as much meat is pried from the crab as
possible. All the inedible parts gather in piles on the table and are
periodically swept away by serving staff. For those who do not like to
imitate the table manners of a bird of prey, the blue crabs are also delicious
in the form of crab cakes - a widely available local specialty. The ultimate
crab feast though, and much less messy, is the acclaimed soft-shell crab.
This is a crab that has been caught as it molts its shell to take on a
larger one (this stage only lasts for a few hours), the crab is then killed
and dressed by a fish merchant and then cooked. The whole thing can be
eaten and is totally delicious - the taste will leave a fond and lasting
memory of any visit to Washington DC
